Wersha Bharadwa checks into Relais & Châteaux’s five-star honeymoon haven Auberge du Jeu de Paume for eye-popping views over the Château de Chantilly – the region’s mini version of Versailles – and where gourmet food is the hotel’s love language…
Location
Fairytale romance and breathtaking grandeur literally burst from every nook and cranny of the architecturally stunning Domaine de Chantilly, a sprawling 7,800-hectare estate where the Auberge du Jeu de Paume hotel sits on a cobbled street, as if straight from a postcard.
Everything kicks off magically with a sedate and swanky chauffeur-driven Mercedes E-Class transfer from Chantilly train station. It’s a totally walkable distance (25 minutes) but then you’d miss the chance to swoon like extras in a 19th-century period drama as Fabien and Enzo from guest relations whisk you past the heart-stopping Château de Chantilly — only a five-minute stroll from the hotel’s stonework framed arched entrance.
Just a 30-minute drive from Charles de Gaulle Airport, the hotel’s commitment to five-star service and luxury attracts more than just French film A-listers like Omar Sy: it has also been famously booked out in its entirety by the England national team and Real Madrid whenever they’re in Paris—an easy 40-minute journey away.
Chantilly is renowned for its horses as much as it is for lace and delectable whipped creams.
So directly opposite, you’ll find a lovely antique shop and a millinery selling seriously fun, handmade hats – perfect for fitting in with the horsey-set over at the Grand Stables which houses the Living Museum of The Horse and Chantilly Racecourse – both across the street. And if you’ve been watching Emily In Paris, you can follow in the footsteps of the series’ titular character over at the Chantilly Polo Club – a ten-minute tootle or lazy two-minute drive courtesy of the hotel’s driver – where the gorgeous polo scenes were filmed in season four.
First impressions
Featured in Condé Nast Traveller’s Gold List, Auberge du Jeu de Paume is a class act in luxury. Large surrounding fields belonging to the Château, ancient mulberry trees, and the sound of clip-clopping hooves on tiny lanes let you know you’re in for a wildly romantic time in the pretty French countryside. Fairy lights twinkle from bushes, and flickering torches burn softly above the hotel’s entrance at night. You literally won’t be able to stop yourselves from being bowled over by the beauty of it all.
While it may have all the airs and graces of an aristocrat’s residence, Auberge du Jeu de Paume was, in fact, only built in 2012 — on the site of a former police station — but wisely recreated in the style of an 18th century ancestral home of sorts by Didier Poignant, the same architect behind the legendary Hotel de Crillon and Royal Monceau hotels in Paris. And like those bastions of opulence, when the sun is glittering, exteriors are a boon for the eyes with cream coloured stone walls, a slate-grey rooftop, old-fashioned wrought-iron awnings and window boxes oozing with roses, hydrangeas, and lavender.
Just as in suites, every public space is an art-laden treasure trove featuring ornaments and oil paintings depicting the local area, castle and famous Orleans family. Inside the lobby you’ll find Murano mirrors galore, period furniture and should you wish to serenade your significant other, there’s even a baby grand piano in the foyer outside the lounge bar.
A sultry, low-lit hangout, the bar mirrors the Château’s grand state rooms with dark walls, original beams, wooden floors, and fancy artworks. It’s exactly where you’ll go for first-class Negronis and Duchess Champagne cocktails made from gin, Chambord, raspberry purée, and Champagne.
Staff — Perene, Fabien, Enzo, and Emma on front desk — go far beyond polite courtesies and instead deliver a curated experience of understated luxury and treats galore for discerning brides and grooms. From private horse-riding lessons to exclusive guided tours of the Château’s bedrooms and apartments, they’ll ensure everything about your stay is geared towards creating those lifetime honeymoon memories.
Much of the magic you’ll experience during your stay stems from Emmanuel Schott, the hotel’s affable and refined general manager, whose leadership fosters warmth and attentiveness in the entire the team and which gives the hotel its distinctive staying-with-family charm.
Suite dreams
In fact, even without throwing in the luxurious four poster suites, all 92 rooms are as dreamy as each other with silk throws draped across beds and polished blond, cherry and walnut wood furniture responsible for elegant interiors. Our suite covers a solid 538 square feet — to hype up the ability to spread out would be quite the understatement.
A separate living room comes kitted out with coffee tables, deep-buttoned armchairs and a roomy sofa perfect for doubling up on while you watch films on the oversized, flat screen, Smart Chromecast TV. Just as spacious, there’s a separate guest bathroom off in the long corridor too.
Your welcome into the suite includes a gourmet, sliced fresh fruit platter consisting of the juiciest kiwis and peaches, a bottle of fine red wine, a jar of posh sweets and handmade, tablet-thick chocolates are piled high on a bed of crushed coffee beans in a winning move. If travelling with kids, little ones are gifted soft toy horses – the hotel’s signature take home gift because of the locale and affiliation with polo.
Whether the sun is out or not, your first stop should be your suite’s private balcony, where you’ll dig into room service lunches at an elegant glass table with padded metal chairs or stretch out on loungers like a pair of pampered dauphins. It’s the perfect position from which to take in the regal beauty of the Château de Chantilly’s landscaped English gardens, rolling yellow-hued hills beyond, and, as a bonus, that ornate Beauvais fountain playing gaily just below your suite.
Many a fine feature aside, when you’re craving restorative shut-eye after a full day of eating, exploring Chantilly and spa-ing, there’s also the matter of that whopping and grand king bed sitting centre stage in the bedroom. Flanked on either side by pretty bedside cabinets with antique table lamps on top and little equestrian decorative touches to soothe the senses, it’s suitably lavish with cushions and pillows piled high and an organic mattress you’ll positively crumple up into.
Gleaming bathrooms filled with marble feature double whammy twin sinks, walk-in showers and a tub so deep and huge it’s a wonder it doesn’t come with its own postcode. Lighting here (and in wardrobe areas) is worthy of a Hollywood movie set.
Upon waking, there’s nothing like flinging open those balcony doors directly from your bedroom to swoon-worthy and ravishing views of the hunched-over weeping willows in the gardens accompanied only by the sounds of the gentle breeze ruffling against the meadows and leaves.
Spa
Ready for pampering, rest and rejuvenation?
Then head to the hotel’s subterranean Valmont spa – a bonafide temple to wellness – where the excellent team of therapists deliver the most mind-and-body melting transformative treatments including pressure point massage and healing reflexology to address ailments and post wedding reception dancing feet. Pinky and the team have made it their mission to ensure you have the most memorable spa experiences of your lives aided by a unique and indulgent treatment menu which includes an abundance of cleansing, restorative and soothing facials and eye treatments as well as deep tissue and Ayurvedic massages.
You’ll properly go weak at the knees at the sight of the stunning pool and the calming chill-out loungers sprinkled around its edges. And after long days walking around Château de Chantilly and ticking off other local sights, this is where you’ll end up — stretched out, languorously, with a herbal tea in hand.
The gym has a pretty feature window that directly looks into the pool house where you’ll find an eight-metre pool heated to 32 degrees and which has an adjacent powerful jacuzzi where you’ll sink into to soothe tired limbs.
Eat
The Lounge Bar is where you’ll warm up with cocktails before dinner and where it’s hard not to feel like an extra from a scene in a French period drama from all the dark woods and vintage decor. Couples after a spectacularly romantic meal experience overlooking the Château’s gardens should book ahead for La Table du Connétable restaurant. Hailing from the Chantilly region himself, Executive chef, Clément Le Norcy, serves up an exciting and addictive menu inspired by his love of French regional cooking and which stays strong in its commitment of local, seasonal and sustainable produce. Gastronomes will find their tastebuds truly tickled with speciality French dishes on the menu over at Le Jardin d’Hiver, the hotel’s main restaurant. Here, the kitchen works miracles with veal and fish, and features innovative and exciting takes on largely organic vegetables too.
With drinks selected by the hotel’s sommelier, we dive headfirst into a bottle of Henriot Blanc de Blancs Champagne. A creative poulet de volaille fermiere main course reinterprets a classic Sunday roast masterfully, and the Skrei fish and butternut quenelle style ravioli sings as it melts on the tongue. Another top tip main course of Celeriac cooked in three different ways (and finished with cress and horseradish coulis), is consumed with gusto. And for dessert? The lip-smacking honey biscuit served with whipped Chantilly cream is both light as a feather and a total delight. You’ll finish the meal fully satiated and thoroughly impressed by the finesse of serving staff.
Breakfast is a superlative feast where every countertop is jam packed with all the best bits of a morning spread a honeymoon couple could hope for. You’ll witness entire sections and tables groaning under the sheer weight of sumptuous foods and delicacies stacked high like a cinematic tableau and it’s here where Auberge almost outclasses itself.
There are vast portions of homemade granolas and assorted dried fruit, nut and toasted seed toppings and whooping bowls of fat, sun-riped strawberries and raspberries alongside juicy fistfuls of figs, mangoes and chopped pineapples. Yogurts, cold meats and fresh smoked salmon are the perfect starters as are theatrical showstopping wheels of regional, young and aged speciality cheeses from comte to Picardy’s Tomme au foin and Bray Au Lin (made from milk enriched with fresh cream) all from independent producers. With the names of each displayed so proudly, it would be rude not to take note and make a mad dash to the nearest fromagerie for more. After bonding over the banquet of breakfast ‘starters’ you’ll choose a hot main of made to order omelettes or poached, fried or boiled eggs with silky yolks the colour of marigolds accompanied by potatoes, bacon and sausages.
If for any reason you can’t finish breakfast or are heading out early to the Château for a day of culture and history, super attentive and courteous servers like Ludvic are only too happy to get a packed breakfast or lunch sent to your room with extra home cooked cookies and water bottles. Hot chocolates here are thick molten and luxurious (from the Vermond brand) and slink down the throat in one sugary hit.
Getting Married:
With a dedicated and experienced in-house wedding team, Auberge offers dreamy ways to say ‘I do’ in a range of spaces for weddings of all sizes. You and your guests can also take over the hotel entirely and book on an exclusive use basis. The largest in-house event space can host up to 100 guests for ceremonies, wedding breakfasts and evening receptions however as the team work so closely with the Chateau de Chantilly and the Chantilly Tourism Board, they’ll work seamlessly on larger weddings inside the chateau itself as well as over at the grand stables and the parklands. Pushed for time? Fret not since the hotel can handle even the smallest detail on speed-dial — from customised wedding menus to welcome cocktails in the château’s gardens, and liaising with handpicked suppliers including florists, photographers and musicians.
What You’ll Love
- During the day, you’ll be thankful for those handy electric bikes as you glide through the town, famous local landmarks and country paths at the Château in style before tackling lunch at an artisanal cafe.
- Need to switch off entirely?Back at the hotel, pick up any of the books housed in a bookcase near reception, find a recliner next to the pool or head for the sunshine on your private balcony.
Where to Visit
Chateau De Chantilly
You’ll need help digesting everything you’ve consumed over at Auberge du Jeu de Paume and there’s no better way to do this than with days spent exploring the regions most famous landmark: Château de Chantilly. Dating back to the 15th century, in recent times it’s been lauded as the location for Valentino’s 2023 fashion show and featured in scenes in the Bond film, A View to a Kill and The Grey Man on Netflix, but its biggest claim to fame is housing the second largest collection of old masters paintings – from Raphaël and Botticelli to Delacroix – in France after the Louvre inside the adjacent Conde Museum.
Rebuilt after it was plundered during the French Revolution, the former home of the Duc d’Aumale, Henri d’Orléans (also the son of the last King of France) is still every bit as Disney-esque as you’d imagine with Renaissance and neoclassical elements throughout exteriors. Make a beeline for a tour of the private apartments where you’ll be met with a riot of colour in blue silks and purples, furniture belonging to Louis XVI, murals and tapestries and one hand-painted room solely dedicated to monkeys. Grounds here are made for ambles and picnics with sprawling acres made up of manicured lawns, glassy lakes, waterfalls and fountains as well French gardens designed by André Le Nôtre – the landscape architect behind Versailles.
And if you’re looking for a majestic venue to tie the knot and one fit for royalty, you’re in luck. Chateau de Chantilly is fully licensed for civil weddings with expert event planners seamlessly ensuring the perfect day and helping with every detail from gourmet catering options and horse-drawn carriages to help you arrive in fairytale style to flowers and evening entertainment. Tailored wedding packages include exclusive-use of the château and its grounds, candle-lit receptions inside the chateau and sun-drenched outdoor ceremonies in the expansive gardens.
Château de Chantilly is open year-round. For more information on visiting or planning your wedding, visit https://chateaudechantilly.fr.
You can also visit https://www.chantilly-senlis-tourisme.com/en/the-destination/terre-de-cheval/lhippodrome-de-chantilly/ for more information.
Arriving In Style
Club Rooms Airport Lounges At Birmingham Airport
More like checking into a polished boutique hotel than navigating the usual airport grind, beat the rush for seating and food outlet queues in style at Birmingham Airport via No.1 Traveller inside the gorgeous Club Rooms. Conveniently located near the main departure gates, the lounge is just steps from boarding areas, with strategically placed flight screens to keep you on schedule.
Super fast Wi-Fi, charging points and digital newspapers come as standard, while interiors and decor seal the deal via warm mood lighting, velvet armchairs paired with sleek, low-slung dark wood tables, black wood panelling on walls and gold accents throughout (grab a window seat for fabulous views of the runway). A bathroom features monsoon showers, glossy grey tiles and pristine white fluffy towels for a pre-flight freshen up too. Tasty breakfast options on the A la carte menu include classic—smashed avocado on sourdough toast served with poached eggs and hash browns. A generous full English comes with sausages, bacon and mushrooms sautéed in butter. Coffees here are richly brewed and – if you prefer – you can also sink your teeth into freshly mixed Bloody Mary’s and mimosas. Staff are warm and professional and, since there is no buffet, you’re whisked to seats, handed menus and afforded excellent table service on tap. Booking directly offers automatic delay coverage —a thoughtful and welcome touch. Prices from £38 per person. Book via www.no1lounges.com.
Extime concierge service at Charles De Gaulle Airport, Paris
Extime’s VIP meet-and-assist service at Charles de Gaulle Airport makes for a welcome, timesaving and slog-free airport experience. The moment we pull up outside departures, a friendly concierge is there to greet us, our luggage is whisked away and expedited through baggage drop, we’re guided effortlessly through various fast-track check-ins and bypass normal queues at security points in record time. Inside Terminals 1 and 2BD, the service offers access to both premium Extime Lounges. A huge, airy, neutral-toned space flooded with light from floor-to-ceiling windows directly overlooking the airfield and complemented by oversized floral arrangements, our lounge is the ultimate cheat sheet for relaxing in style – even when flying economy. Seating and tables feel exclusive with the addition of dark woods offset by cream fabrics, cubicles with partitions and the lounge divided up into a a series of separate rooms and a main, spacious dining hall to ensure privacy and to help you all relax and unwind before the flight. Food is plentiful and as much a centrepiece as the décor, with a tasty fresh salad bar, French cheeses, artisan breads, and a rotating choice of hot dishes and desserts, all complimentary. Soft and alcoholic drinks flow, and the wine list is excellent. Staff are extremely personable and ready with smiles to assist. Throughout our stay, the concierge keeps us updated via WhatsApp and personally escorts us to our gate. Priority boarding is included. Prices from £75 per person. Book direct at
https://www.parisaeroport.fr/en/passengers/services/extime-meet-and-greet
GETTING THERE:
EasyJet flies from Birmingham to Charles De Gaulle, Paris from £43 each way. Visit easyjet.com
